Deep in the Kidepo Valley some 27 miles from the South Sudanese border, I was treated to a very special birthday party by the staff of Wildplaces Africa Apoka Safari Lodge. The next morning Charley and I started our return journey south along the dusty back roads of northern Uganda. Due to there being no petrol in the gas stations at Gulu Town, we headed for the town of Lira. There we met up with Abdul Gafur, a touring circus motorcycle dare devil. I had not seen such an attraction since I was a kid when the annual fair would come to Greenwood, SC.

Along the highway towards Karuma, Charley made the comment that he had never seen so many vehicular accidents. We finally called it a day in the town of Migeraa where a nearby disco played African tunes until 4am.