Great Africa

Getting Acclimated

The curfew starts in 1.5 hours so we have returned to base camp here at The Logali House in Juba. Our plan is in place to depart in the morning for Torit (www.thebakertrail.org). The ministry contact here in Juba said that there is no way can I walk it`, so I hired a driver named Charles US170 (vehicle, driver, fuel) for the journey.

The driver, Charles, told me the direct road to Torit has closed due to rebels. That means we now have to take the long way around via Magwe (I was there last January 2013). I hired the same driver for SSP50 to drive me around Juba for the day.

At the Juba Bridge Hotel, where I stayed last year after filming the Nile River, I was packing away gear when a tall Dinka security guard (you can tell who are the Dinka due to their unique facial scarring) approached, politely shook my hand and then inquired if I was a guest. I said no but that I had a reservation to arrive tomorrow. Within minutes additional security persons arrived and explained that I did not have permission to film (I had a government laminated permit with photo but when presented, it meant nothing).

The area, though out of visual site from the Juba Bridge, which currently has canons pointed at it in case the government need to blow it to stop rebel advances, was still deemed a sensitive location to be filming. I think my driver Charles was more freaked out than me for he looked as though he would trade me for his own freedom.

Driving back through Juba, there was a large presence of truckloads of soldiers with large guns and bullet clips mounted in the truck bed. Several tanks are positioned at key locations. Then there are the long lines of young men whom I was told are registering to join the armed forces.

Upon arrival to my base camp, I spoke briefly with a US Soldier and some guy to whom he was obviously providing private security as he was clutching his satellite phone tightly. They were a bit tense and surprised that I was in the country. I explained that I was from the US, but they declined to say where they were from.