It’s like a maze of endless alleyways with countless vendors shouting out “hey muzungu, take my photo!” You can lose yourself inside for up to six hours exploring the place from start to finish. Your senses will be overwhelmed. You will feel uneasy and threatened. Sweat will pour down your forehead.

The busiest market in Kampala, the capital of Uganda, spreads out around the Nakivubo Stadium. Matatu vans stand in row after row waiting to ferry passengers to the far reaches of the nation. Everything and anything is for sale in Owino.

During our first trip to Uganda in the late 1990’s Gina and I stayed in a backpackers across the street from the market. Today the place looks like a different planet and once you stumble back out into Kampala, you will ask yourself aloud “what just happened?”