With the flu keeping me in a state somewhere between grogginess and total fatigue, I began my 4 day ride to end the Brazilian portion of my journey. From Rosario do Sul we would ride 105 desolate kilometres to the border city of Santana do Livramento, Rio Grande do Sul. On the other side lay Rivera and 500 kilometres of Uruguayan soil to be ridden.
On my first day, a strong wind screamed across the pampas. On both sides of the road stretched cattle pastures burned yellow from this year’s harsh winter. The mares enjoyed the chilly weather and trekked happily as if they hadn’t just walked 2000 kilometres.
I wish I could have enjoyed the final days in my home country. But the truth is, I just wanted to get to the end. That first afternoon, when I stepped down from the saddle, I felt like death. My head was pounding from a severe sinus headache. Every muscle in my body ached. I felt like I was going to faint with each step I took.
After untacking Life, feeding both mares, and turning them out in a pasture behind the restaurant we would call home for the night, I set up the saddle blankets in the back of the van (which was being sent ahead by kind individuals since mark left). Shortly after, I passed out hard. I awoke two hours later feeling even worse. I ate a small dinner and went straight back to my makeshift bed.
The next morning when I awoke, I contemplated staying put for the day. I felt so weak, when I stood up, I had to immediately sit back down and stay put for 10 minutes. When I regained my power I decided to keep trekking – the longer it took to reach Santana do Livramento, the longer it took to sleep in a real bed.
Once again cold temperatures and strong winds accompanied us south. We rode 30 kms to a small cattle farm on the right side of the road where I was welcomed by two workers. I had enough energy to cook a pot of noodles and when I finished scraping the plate, I went straight to sleep.
On the third day I was forced to ride 35 kms to our next stop in deep fog. During the final 5 I had to push myself both mentally and physically. I was terribly ill at this point, and began contemplating if this was just the flu or pneumonia.
But by far, the hardest day was our fourth and final day on the road. When I climbed into the saddle, I was so weak, I contemplated tying myself to it. Every stride Doll took seemed like a hammer was striking the middle of my forehead right on top of my eyebrows. A mild fever kept me sweating even though the temperature was extremely low. My body ached from my hair to my toes. I was in bad shape. Luckily I only had 15 kms to ride….
