I awoke in front of the rural church sore and tired. Another cold and uncomfortable night on top of the saddle pads. But the thought that we would soon arrive in a town with a real bed and a shower lifted my spirits.
The day began with a mountain climb under heavy fog. It was so thick in fact, my jacket was left soaked as if it were raining. I traversed small villages and farms on both sides of the winding road. Several of the small-colourful, wooden homes i passed, displayed children with wide smiles hanging out of small windows. “Run, run, there’s a horse coming, come see,” I could hear the parents announcing in the homes.

Seconds later one or more children would pop their heads out of the window looking with wondrous eyes.
I also saw carts being pulled by teams of bulls full of feed for the milk cattle. Here, instead of using tractors, many of the small milk farms run by families use these teams to do all of the work needed. It is as if I had gone back in time after crossing the Uruguay River.
Just after lunch I arrived in the town of Tenente Portela. The small town of 14,000 people seemed like a bustling metropolis compared to the villages and jungles we rode through the past few days. Our host Andre met us in front of his family’s pharmacy in the heart of town. He welcomed us into his home town and before we rode to his ranch, we took photos in front of a large statue of a native man with a bow and arrow.

“This area had a lot of indigenous people so this monument is here to honor them,” Andre told me after I snapped a photo standing on top of the saddle.
About 2 kilometres before arriving at his ranch I could already smell the meat being barbecued. In Rio Grande meat is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
“Welcome to our humble ranch Filipe, anything you need, just ask,” Andre’s father said before giving me a strong bear hug.
I untacked and fed the mares and ate copious amounts of meat with the Gauchos of Tenente Portela. It felt great to be in the state of Rio Grande do Sul with my girls and to be in such good shape.