I can’t sleep. It’s 3:15am and the car-seat I am crumpled on feels like a medieval torture device and it’s not the because of my insomnia. The 11,000 foot pass I must cross to get from Ouray to Silverton, Colorado is what has kept me awake. Characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes and a complete lack of guardrails, Red Mountain Pass is one of the hairiest drives in the world. Today, I will ride it.
While in Ouray waiting for my arrival, Emma went to the information center and asked the ladies working for some hints on crossing the pass. At first they thought I was trailering the horses and were already worried. After Emma explained I would be riding it they said, “Oh we worry about bikers riding through it… Never mind 3 horses, good luck to you two.”
After a warm welcome from some tourists in town, Emma and I made our way to a campsite at the bottom of the mountain. We let the horses graze while writing on the back window of the car. With a white marker we wrote, “Caution Horses Ahead.” Due to the amount of switch-backs on the narrow road, we planned to leave in the early morning with the car following close behind to prevent any serious injuries to myself or the horses.
By 8pm the horses were tied up with a mountain of hay underneath them, and Emma and I were in sleep mode. Only 7 hours later here we were getting ready to take on this dark mountain. I tack up my pony, grabbed some granola bars to go and hit the road.
As we move up this monster, I am accompanied by a dark abyss to my right that looks like a black hole. In front of me is the silhouette of a high-peak with the moon hanging to its left. On the rock face to my left is the shadow my three horses and I casted by the headlight behind us.
The higher we climb, the colder it gets. At some points the wind is so strong I am afraid my hat will fly off the edge. With every big truck that passes it is as if that cold wind penetrates the pit of my stomach.
“If one of these horses spooks I am screwed,” this is the only thought in my mind. One loud noise… One honk… One deer… and the three of us are galloping over that edge and down the dark hole.
As the night slowly transitions into day, we are more than 10 miles up Red Mountain. Although it feels great to be moving up, the cold thickens. My ears, fingers and face plea for help. “Ahhhhhhhhh,” I yell at the top of my lungs. The grass next to me is frozen along with the water in small ponds. My horses breath shoots out of their nostrils in synchronized motion like a steam locomotive.
Just after 1pm we arrive at our home for the night. While on the road Emma was stopped by Dennis Stinsien, who owns a charming bunkhouse on the shores of Mineral Creek. He graciously invited us to spend the night with him. In order to get to his place I have to ride and Emma has to drive through the creek. So cool!
Dennis is a tremendous host! As night sets in we drink, laugh, BBQ and even go out for a tour of Silverton. While chatting I discover that we share very similar stories. A lover of the open road, horses and storytelling – he rode his horses from Arizona to Utah a few years ago – filming the entire thing.
“My favorite part of the trip was getting to know the ranchers along the way,” Dennis tells me as we have a drink in his barn.
The next morning I wake up at 7am to the sound of my horses hitting their water bucket around. I am tired, but I know they are calling me. “Hey do you mind waking up and putting some water in these frozen buckets right now,” is what I hear as the bucket hits the fence post over and over again.
I unzip the tent as frost falls on the floor. It’s another cold morning. As I make my way to the water buckets I notice that the back tire of the car is completely flat – the worst. I guess while driving over the creek last night, a rock punctured the side of the tire. After giving my ponies their much needed morning drink, I begin to change the tire. In under an hour the job is done and I am tired. Perfect time to saddle up and ride 27 miles! 🙂
Emma and I say goodbye to Dennis and thank him for his amazing hospitality. As we head out of Silverton I quickly realize this section of the ride will be just as bad as the day before. Blind curves with cars coming and going keep me alert and tense. After just a few minutes of climbing I see a Sheriffs car pull up behind me. “Oh no, this is not good,” I think to myself.
As he gets out of the vehicle, I pull over to the side. He walks towards me and says, “We got a call from a worried driver saying there was a cowboy with three horses riding up here.”
“Im sorry, but we have a right to be on this road as much as cars do,” I responded.
“That’s correct, but you don’t have the right to put people and yourself in danger with these blind curves,” he said.
I explain to him that this is the fastest way for me to get out of Colorado before the snow arrives and that I am very careful with the horses. I also tell him about my entire journey.
“Wow, thats quite the project… I guess all I can do is tell you to be careful,” he says.
I thank him for understanding and continue making my way up the mountain. At 10,910 feet we are at the summit of Molas Pass. The view from the top is beautiful! We make our way down the mountain four hours before finally arriving at a corral to leave the horses overnight. I am so proud of these horses! They have worked so hard these last few days.
After sleeping like a rock we are ready for the final day of our trek to Durango. As we are just getting started, we meet Anne Rapp. This powerful horsewoman offers trail rides, pack trips and sleigh rides out of Rapp Corral – one of USA Todays top 10 picks!
Anne quickly connects me to Pamela Jones from J Bar J Ranch just outside of Durango! These two woman welcomed Emma and I into Durango with open arms. They bought equipment for my horses, supplied hay and a beautiful pasture for them to relax. I cant thank them enough!!
Durango also introduced me to another extraordinary woman – Margo Gulbranson. The Minnesota native flew to Denver and drove all the way to Durango to meet the horses and I, and give shirts and hoodies she designed for JourneyAmerica under her company Saddle up Clothing.
“I found out about your trip through the internet before you left Calgary and have been following ever since. I think it’s just so amazing what you are doing,” she said as we ate lunch downtown Durango.
Soon Margo will be selling JourneyAmerica’s official apparel on her website with a portion of the proceeds going towards the trip itself! I’m so excited to work with her!
Headed for Aztec, New Mexico! wooohooooo
Special thanks to my Emma for driving at 2 miles an hour over Red Mountain Pass and all of those who have helped us this last stretch!!!!
